28-02-2012 | 17.35
Doesn’t that name sound familiar..... Fiorucci? Wasn’t that the fashion brand they sold years ago at the then hipster department of The Bijenkorf (Holland's most famous department store)? That's right. British artist Mark Leckey used the brand name in his widely acclaimed video Fiorucci Made Me Hardcore.
Fiorucci Made Me Hardcore is composed of found footage from the underground club scene in the '70s, '80s and '90s in England. The video begins with images from the disco era in the seventies and quickly flows to the end of that decade when the so-called Northern Soul heyday celebrated in London among a large group of white and black youth. The soul music from labels like Motown left the young people dancing ‘till sunrise. The video builds to a climax during the 90s where kids, stuffed with drugs, are raving like maniacs. Details of expensive clothing such as Diadora, Ellesse and Fiorucci, music and other cultural references give a good image of the youth and club culture from that era.
But why did Leckey refer to Fiorucci? The collection of Fiorucci was launched early '60s and was inspired by the UK style called ‘Swinging London’. The term was coined in 1966 by Time Magazine and referred to the radio station Swinging Radio England. With 'Swinging' people were referring to those who are hip and fashionable in that time. You can compare them to the 'Hipsters' we have nowadays. Also a term that has been around for a while, namely since 1940.
For those who were not born yet, from 1976 to 1984, Fiorucci was the shop where all the celebrities were hanging out. Jackie O, Cher and Elizabeth Taylor shopped here, Andy Warhol was a regular and Truman Capote signed his books at the store. The store in New York quickly became known as the 'Daytime Studio 54'. Prior to their gigs DJs went to Fiorucci to warm up. Even Marc Jacobs dragged his grandmother into the store for a pair of new jeans. Jacobs later admitted that Fiorucci has had a major influence on his designing. ''When I was 15, instead of going to sleep-away camp I spent the whole summer hanging out in the store. I had this wide-eyed glamour about these beautiful young people that globe-trotted from club to club dressing in these fabulous clothes. It was like a living, breathing fashion show that I wanted so much to be part of.''
Fiorucci is now in decline and other brands have taken over the scepter. Nevertheless, for deacdes Fiorucci has been an important part of youth culture and we are glad that Mark Leckey was able to assemble his video in a way that we can get a glimpse of what it must have been like. Fiorucci Made Me Hardcore is shown at Contemporary Art Club on March 29th in Trouw.